In some cases Hatch halogen transformers can drive LED MR16 loads but Hatch does not warrant them for these applications. The reason for this is that the halogen transformers were designed long before LED MR16 designs emerged and they use a completely different topology/control circuit. The halogen transformers do not ‘self-oscillate’ – they depend on the impedance of the lamp itself to create a resonant circuit. LED MR16 lamps have their own mini-driver board in them so they do not present an appropriate impedance to the transformer. The LED version of the transformer overcomes this problem by using a special control integrated circuit that has a fixed oscillating frequency. Although this topology can be used to drive a halogen lamp, the reverse is not true. An RS-LED transformer should always be used if the load is intended to be a self-ballasted LED MR16 load.

A low voltage transformer is an electrical device that reduces 120 volts (line voltage) into 12 volts or 24 volts (low voltage). It is sometimes made by winding two wires around an iron core with one wire connected to the primary side (line voltage side) and the second wire connected to the secondary side (low voltage side). In the case of low voltage halogen or low voltage xenon lighting the low voltage transformer has an input or primary voltage of 120 volts (sometimes 277 volts) and an output or secondary voltage of 12 volts or 24 volts. An example of a core and coil type transformer is our LS and LT models.

Conventional low voltage transformers, also called magnetic core & coil low voltage transformers can be extremely large and heavy, consist of an iron core and two sets of wires as described in the previous paragraph. An electronic low voltage transformer, on the other hand, also contains an electronic device, called an inverter, which allows the size of the low voltage transformer to be substantially smaller. An inverter and a small transformer make up the main components of what we normally call an electronic low voltage transformer. An example of our electronic transformers is our RS and VS lines.

The inverter conditions the voltage to change direction at a frequency of about 20,000 times per second (called Hertz or Hz) as opposed to the normal power from your wall outlet, which changes direction at a frequency of 50Hz or 60Hz. The higher the frequency, the smaller the low voltage transformer can be. Most electronic low voltage transformers provide high frequency AC output.

Electronic low voltage transformers are very small and light compared to magnetic low voltage transformers, in most cases small enough that fixture manufacturers can often incorporate them within their lighting fixture rather than leaving the customer to find a hiding place. Even when not incorporated within the lighting fixture an electronic low voltage transformer is very easy to install in a small hidden location.

Simply – temperature rating. When size and weight are not an issue and a high temperature is needed, a magnetic transformer is a good choice. Hatch magnetic low voltage transformers can handle normal operating temperatures of 180 degree C.

Please make certain that the black and white input wires (primary side) of the low voltage transformer are connected to the power line (120 volts or 277 volts) using wire nuts that the two red output wires (secondary side) of the low voltage transformer are connected to the low-voltage light source using wire terminal blocks of appropriate size (for solid contact). Low voltage halogen or low voltage xenon lighting systems carry relatively large currents so all of the low voltage connections must be very tight to prevent arcing (a possible fire hazard) within those connections. Note: Do not connect 277 volts to a 120 volt transformer, and also do not connect 120 volts to a 277 volt transformer. Make sure you have the correct transformer that matches your input voltage.

(A) Please make certain that the black and white input wires (primary side) of the low voltage transformer are connected to the power line (120 volts or 277 volts) and that the two red output wires (secondary side) of the low voltage transformer are connected to the low voltage light source (12 volts or 24 volts). Most failures occur as a result of reverse or improper wiring.
(B) Check the filament of the lamp to see if is burned out. (Remember the glass envelope of a halogen lamp should NOT be touched by bare hands because the natural oil from your hands will cause the lamp to burn out prematurely.)
(C) Check the connection somewhere between the output wires of the transformer (red wires) and the lamp. The transformer has a sophisticated short circuit/overload protection system. If it senses a short or a bad connection or too many lamps (ie: too much wattage) it wil cause problems. Check all the connections for tightness, corrosion, arcing etc. If all are tight and clean and you do not have more than the maximum wattage of lamps on the system, then look at the lampholder itself. Make sure the contacts in the lampholder where the lamps plug in are still tight and do not show signs of carbon buildup or arcing.

No, some Hatch electronic transformers feature “Demand Circuit Design”. The transformer will not produce voltage unless a lamp with at least the minimum wattage required is connected to it.

Yes.

This wire is only for OEM type applications. It is used to attach a 1 meg ohm linear taper potentiometer for dimming via a potentiometer. You do not have to use the blue loop to make the unit work, it is only there if you want to use a potentiometer to dim your fixture (example: Desk top lamp).